By Ben Joravsky
To Dorizas, Rogers Park symbolizes opportunity. Born on Cephalonia, a Greek island, he sailed to Virginia in 1959 on a merchant marine ship. “I figured this is America, land of opportunity–I want to stay,” says Dorizas. “I didn’t want a life at sea–it was too hard. I decided to make a new life. I was 17 years old, spoke little English, and had $55 in my pocket. I had an uncle in Chicago. So I took a bus to Chicago, and I’ve been here ever since.”
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By 1976 they had outgrown their old establishment and opened at a new location, 7545 N. Clark. “Even then people said, ‘You’re crazy. Why you going to Rogers Park? It’s a jungle,’” says Dorizas. “But I didn’t see it that way. I thought it was a colorful neighborhood with a lot of potential. In those days there wasn’t a restaurant that would serve you a plate of fresh fish between here and Kenosha. I told my brothers, ‘Don’t worry. We’ll bring in customers from all over the North Shore.’”
Few restaurateurs had such close ties to their clientele. Steve and Dennis (John moved back to Greece in the early 80s) greeted customers at the door with panache. They knew their names and occupations; a dentist was greeted as “doctor,” a PhD as “professor.” With a great flourish they ushered regulars to favorite tables, allowing them to think they were being moved to the head of a long line.
For Steve Dorizas, the downturn was aggravated when his brother Dennis died of a heart attack last summer. “It was very sad for me,” he says. “We argued a lot over business–Dennis didn’t want to stay. But I know we loved each other. All of a sudden he’s gone. I still haven’t got over it.”
“I drove by, saw the new name, and thought they went out of business,” says Les Ornstein, a local artist. “I never went to the new place.”
In the meantime, old customers are rallying to bring back business. Ed Paschke, who has a studio on Howard Street, will stop by at seven on March 11 to sign his likeness on the mural. There will be dancing and free wine.
