Jack Jones’s Italian-born grandmother, Vingencina Grieco, was cooking with infused oils all the way back in the 50s. His dad, Bill, an insurance agent in eastern Long Island, was a weekend fisherman who turned the day’s catch into delicacies such as bouillabaisse or steamed flounder stuffed with crabmeat. “He was a foodie back in the early 60s, before we knew about foodies,” says Jones.

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“She did everything by feel. I didn’t know what she did–I couldn’t duplicate it. But between dad and her I guess I always knew I wanted to work with food. When I was in college in Florida I used to cook for my friends. I was always trying to do something different–I’d make fish. I’d grill red snapper and stuff like that. Who was cooking fish in college in the early 70s? Then I transferred to the University of California at Santa Barbara. I worked in a health-food store and I honed my vegetarian skills.”

After graduating in 1987, Jones took on a series of jobs as a line cook and sous chef, working at Yoshi’s, Terczak’s, Oceanique in Evanston, and Spiaggia. By 1993 it was time to make the big move: he opened his first bistro, Daniel J’s on Ashland near Grace. (Daniel is his middle name.) Brother Michael, who serves as business manager, designed and rehabbed the double storefront. The restaurant quickly became a hit, and last August they opened a second spot, Jack’s, at Halsted and Belmont, on the site of the old Helmand.

Jack’s, 3201 N. Halsted, is open for dinner every day; call 773-244-9191. Daniel J’s, 3811 N. Ashland, is open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday. Call 773-404-7772. –Don Rose