The best way to enjoy the barbecue at Smokin’ Woody’s is to sit at the chef’s table. Woody advertises this unique experience on his menu as “Meticulous Dining Adventures With Woody.” The table itself is a roving institution. “You sit at whatever table’s open,” Woody says, “and I join you.”

“What is this?” I asked.

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Our bill came to $45 for four, a reasonable sum. As far as I could tell, it had been chosen at random.

“This is the menu. There are no substitutions, and that’s the way it is. Come and eat. I’m not gonna wine and dine ya. I’m gonna feed ya and send ya on your way. If you want to sit around and talk to your friends, that’s fine too, but you’re here for one reason. I’m not running an entertainment complex.”

Woody will host the first annual North Center Rib Festival & Cookoff Sunday from noon to 8 on Damen at Irving Park, featuring the recipes of up to 100 backyard barbecuers and music from C.J. Chenier and Paul Cebar & the Milwaukeeans. Smokin’ Woody’s is at 4160 N. Lincoln. Call 773-880-1100. –Neal Pollack