RUSHMORE opened only three weeks ago, but the staff at this contemporary American restaurant already has an air of confident professionalism. Considering the team behind the place, that’s not such a surprise: the owners are Rodney Alex of Bin 36 and Franco Gianni of Sushi Wabi, with chef Michael Dean Hazen, formerly a sous chef at Blackbird. Pushing the Randolph Street restaurant scene slightly northward, Rushmore sits on Lake under the rumbling Green Line tracks. The softly lit, minimally decorated room is elegant, with linen-topped tables and warm wood trim, but it’s casual enough to be comfortable. The menu has a similar easy grace. There are sophisticated offerings reminiscent of the chefs former place of work like Colorado rack of lamb with a navy bean and fennel gratin and tender braised lamb shoulder, all in a satiny merlot reduction, and a fish special that one day featured wild striped bass on a celery root puree with fennel. As a counterpoint, there are also daily blue-plate specials like buttermilk fried chicken and meat loaf with onion rings. Sides include macaroni and cheese, garlic mashed potatoes, and braised collard greens. All of the dishes are prepared with a light hand and an attention to detail that shows experience and talent. Rushmore is at 1023 W. Lake, 312-421-8845.
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Becco d’Oro, a fine Italian restaurant from the owners of Milwaukee’s Becco Fino and executive chef Gaetano DiBenedetto, is scheduled for a December 7 opening at 160 E. Huron.
Art accompanying story in printed newspaper (not available in this archive): photo/Jim Newberry.
